How to handle old watches
Page Guide
The Charm of Antique Watches
Antique watches possess a charm entirely different from that of modern mass-produced machines. The history of mechanical watches is long, and it is said that they were largely perfected about 100 years ago.
Assembled one by one by craftsmen, these watches continue to tick like living things even decades or over a century after they were made, allowing us to feel the romance of history. This is part of their charm.
Furthermore, many watches used by the aristocracy and other wealthy people of the time feature exquisite decorations on their cases and dials, giving them the added appeal of works of art.
Points to Note About Antique Watches
Because these are machines made decades or even over a century ago, they are extremely delicate. Compared to modern watches, they are inevitably inferior in functional aspects such as water resistance, shock resistance, magnetic resistance, and accuracy.
Over the long years, some may exhibit issues such as being difficult to start, having a large difference in accuracy depending on their position, or having a stiff crown. We hope you will treat these not as defects, but as the "quirks" of the watch, and appreciate them with a generous heart.
Except for those listed as junk or requiring repair, all antique watches sold in our store will run reliably when wound. However, they often have some kind of "quirk," and we describe any distinctive characteristics in the product description.
Accuracy and Power Reserve
Accuracy and power reserve (the time the watch runs on a full wind) vary depending on the watch, so we list the measurements taken during inspection in the product description.
However, the accuracy of an antique watch is affected by the amount of wind, temperature and humidity, the watch's position (how it is placed), and the presence of objects nearby that emit magnetic fields or electromagnetic waves (PCs, smartphones, earphones, speakers, etc.), so it will not always maintain that level of accuracy.
Watch Warranty
Watches purchased from our store come with a one-month operating warranty from the date of delivery. If a watch sold as working ceases to function as described within the warranty period, we will repair it free of charge.
Please check here for details.
Overhauls
If a mechanical watch is not overhauled—a maintenance process involving disassembly, cleaning, and oiling—about once every three years, it will gradually deteriorate and become more prone to breaking.
Unless otherwise stated, our watches are not overhauled at the time of purchase.
We have adopted this sales method because some customers choose to overhaul the watches themselves, while others purchase them for appreciation and are not concerned with accuracy.
If You Wish to Have an Overhaul Before Delivery
If you wish, we can overhaul the watch before delivery. In this case, the cost of the overhaul will be quoted separately.
Depending on the watch's construction, manufacturer, and storage condition, the cost is generally around ¥20,000 to ¥30,000.
Basic Care
Our blog explains how to handle antique pocket watches and other related topics.
- Types of Pocket Watches and Part Names
- How to Wind a Pocket Watch
- Setting the Time on a Pocket Watch
When wearing a pocket watch, it is customary to attach a chain called an Albert chain to prevent it from falling out of your pocket. You can find information about Albert chains here.
Tips for Longevity
1. Do Not Open the Case Unnecessarily
Avoid opening the back cover unnecessarily, as dust or other debris may enter and cause the watch to stop working. Please also be careful not to open the front cover or touch the hands.
2. Keep Away from Objects That Emit Magnetic Fields or Electromagnetic Waves
Keep the watch away from smartphones, computers, earphones, speakers, and other objects that emit magnetic fields or electromagnetic waves. The parts may become magnetized, causing the time to drift or the watch to malfunction.
3. Prevent Drops and Impacts
Be careful not to drop the watch (it is sensitive to impact). When going out, we recommend attaching it to a pocket with an Albert chain or cord to prevent it from falling out.
4. Avoid Water and Moisture
Never let the watch get wet. Avoid using it on rainy days or storing it in humid places.
5. Wind the Mainspring Fully
When winding the mainspring, wind it all the way to the stop (full wind). Otherwise, it may be difficult to start or may not keep accurate time.
6. Overhaul Regularly
Have the watch overhauled about once every three to four years. If you do not know who to ask for an overhaul, please contact us.
Post-Purchase Maintenance
Even if it is not an antique, it is advisable to have a mechanical watch overhauled about once every three years when using it as a practical timepiece.
In the case of antique watches, manufacturers often no longer accept them for repair, or the manufacturer itself may no longer exist, making it difficult to ask them to repair or overhaul the watch.
The number of watchmakers who can repair and overhaul antique watches is declining as they age. If a watch purchased from our store breaks or begins to malfunction and you wish to have it overhauled, please contact us.
If you send the watch to us, we will help you by passing it on to a watchmaker who may be able to repair it and obtaining a repair estimate.
We can also introduce you to watch shops near your home that can repair antique watches (depending on your area).
Notes
Originality
Over the long period since the watch was manufactured, parts such as the mainspring, crystal, hands, and crown may have been replaced during maintenance. In particular, the mainspring and crystal can be considered consumable parts.
In some cases, the dial or case may have also been replaced. It is impossible to fully determine what has been replaced. They may have been replaced with non-original alternatives.
We describe what we know in the product description. However, the fact that not all parts are original does not diminish the value of the watch as an antique.
Starting
Especially immediately after the watch has been sent to you, it may not start properly even after being fully wound.
In that case, try gently shaking the watch from side to side or letting it run for 12 hours (one full cycle) while setting the time.
